Brake Rotors Question

[CamBiscuit]

Guys

I measured my rotors today and they are just about out of spec, so I'll have to add them to the project list!

What are people running? Is cross drilling worthwhile or not?

Lastly where to buy at a reasonable price?

Thanks!

[alexwebster]

Cam,
depending on what you want to run and if you want to import them, I bought some for my 67 last year from Performance Products in the USA. They were really cheap and great quality. I have yet to fit them but bought some knowing that sooner or later my rotors would need replacing. THey have all types.

[hmd]

Cam,

This is one of the parts where I found Porsche Australia is actually competitive.

[alexwebster]

FWIW I checked the invoice and it was about $50 US for a rotor!

[CamBiscuit]

Alex

How much was the postage!!!

Are you running crossdrilled?

[alexwebster]

no I am running solids - Postage was not bad, as I had it with a whole bunch of other stuff!!

[CamBiscuit]

Holy smoking rotors Batman..!!!

Price from Porsche Australia is $481.56 for the fronts!

[hmd]

oops, I used to buy 951 rotors from Porsche for $240 fronts.

[alexwebster]

now mine are looking like the goods!

[e72phil]

Cam, cross drilled is good if you expect to experience a lot of wet weather driving, but I beleive you are better with either solid or slotted rotors and the right pads. I hear pads are the real secret to effective braking on these cars. Alex or Ryan ? your comments ??

[alexwebster]

Cam, FWIW, I run standard solid venitated on the fronts with race grade pads. They are nothing short of AWESOME in the braking department. The discs have not worn badly, but the pads tend to wear out, but remember the car is basically just doing track work so when the middle pedal is being used, it is being used pretty hard!!

For my thinking the cross drilling does get more air in the disc to cool it down, but generally we are not getting the discs that hot in races as they are pretty short compared to professional standard races. Therefore my line of thinking is that you need heat in the brakes quickly rather than trying to cool them down too much.

A great set of pads will make the braking experience change the dynamics of the system. The other things to check is brake lines, that can expand and therefore give poor braking performance, and calipers that are not activating correctly or fully.

Oh, my calipers are just stock steel ones too not the alloy ones! I took by bias out too, so it is pretty standard set up and it works great.

[CamBiscuit]

Thanks guys

I pushed the button last night on some ventilated & slotted rotors (not cross-drilled) that are made by ATE, the same guys that made the OEM brake callipers.

The pads I went with are the Ferodo 2500 as they seem to do a good all round job. I did a refurb on my S callipers the other day as well. Cant wait to put them on.....

Major plans afoot!

[jason]

Thanks guys

I pushed the button last night on some ventilated & slotted rotors (not cross-drilled) that are made by ATE, the same guys that made the OEM brake callipers.

The pads I went with are the Ferodo 2500 as they seem to do a good all round job. I did a refurb on my S callipers the other day as well. Cant wait to put them on.....

Major plans afoot!

Hey Cam,
What was the verdict on your purchases? I'm in the market at the moment. Did you source domestically?

[Merv]

I have been very pleased with the Porterfield pads from Eric at PMB

[CamBiscuit]

Hi Jason

I'm scratching to remember after 8 years! From what I recall I think they worked pretty well.....