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Fishcop's 911t Restoration 2010

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    Fishcop's 911t Restoration 2010

    I thought I'd start a new and easily searchable thread on here to document OLE911's restoration. I'm giving myself this year to complete it, but won't punish myself if it takes a little longer... (Oh MUCH longer ) ...*Skip 4 years and a rego change to TYP901... page 70 for the end results

    In the interest of completeness, a little on the history of this 911t as I'm aware. It is an August 1969 build and it was delivered to Hamiltons as an Aussie RHD delivery. It was delivered in Ossie Blue, equipped with a sportomatic and no sunroof. It was purchased in early 1970 and went to a doctor in Canberra. Some time later it ended up in Melbourne and appears to have had around 5 owners before I got it in Brisbane circa 2000. It apparently had rust removed (sills and pans) and painted in Melbourne circa 1996.

    When I bought it I was actively looking for an early 911, despite the advice I was given to buy the latest I could afford with a galvanised body, I had a feeling it would be a better long term decision to choose a narrow bumpered long nose toy. The current Arrow Blue colour grabbed me immediately - it is very vivid in the flesh and cameras/computer monitors often don't do it justice.

    The car was missing so much of the original interior that it looked nothing like a 911 inside. Someone had also deleted all the anodised bright work in favour of the later 'blacked out' look. But it had also had SC flares added along with a set of 7&8x15 Fuchs and quite a nice stance.

    In 2001 I was posted to Townsville where I spent a lot of time on the water working. In the brief breaks I had, I set about returning the bright work, getting rid of the chrome from the fuchs (yes they were chromed), and restoring the interior to a basic black. A lot of the brightwork had been sanded to key the black paint so the anodise was rooted. I removed what was left and set about polishing all the alloy to a fine finish (thank you Mothers). I did notice some "minor" rust in the floor which I resolved to get around to...

    The car has been all around Queensland and had various iterations from the strange car it was when I got it, to an RS replica, track whore, and now to a sort of period "sports purpose" road car. There's not much I haven't cleaned up or replaced at some time or another. I've also built the RS spec engine in the car and replaced the sporto with a 915 I also rebuilt (the original stuff is still with me for the matching number anoraks).

    Anyway, today began the full front to back body and paint restoration. The car will be repainted in the original Ossi Blue (I will definitely miss the Arrow Blue) but it will keep the flares and wider wheels, and will still be a hotrod in preference to a nut and bolt concours resto. The following photos cover about 5 hours in the garage today.

    The last photos are of the support/flipping dollies I'm considering. The Octagon idea is one I've pinched from various sources (mainly Wevo and Gary Emory in the States). They are easy to use and don't take up as much room as a rotisserie. The final photo is of a an early car in Ossi Blue...
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Fishcop; 04-11-13, 08:20 PM.
    John Forcier
    1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
    1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
    Restoration Saga
    1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

    #2
    John - looks like a great project. Don't worry, ossi blue is also a great colour...

    Chris

    Comment


      #3
      John - Thanks for taking the time to post the record of your restoration. I, for one, will be looking forward to updates. In relation to the restoration of the brightwork that you have done previously, what did you use to remove the paint and the remaining anodising? I have tried a paint remover but it seems to have some caustic soda like content that attacks the aluminium as well as the paint and anodising. Did you clear coat the aluminium after polishing? Do you have any tips and traps advice for polishing the aluminium?

      Hope you don't mind answering what are probably very basic questions.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Fishcop View Post
        It is an August 1969 build and it was delivered to Hamiltons as an Aussie RHD delivery. It was delivered in Ossie Blue, equipped with a sportomatic and no sunroof.
        sounds very similar to my car (except irish green)!!
        Richard Griffiths
        1970 911T 2.8

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Jock, I don't mind answering at all.

          I used Easy Off oven cleaner - the one which contains lye. It seems to be enough to remove the anodise. I then used stainless steel wool to remove the remains. I followed that up by sanding with 2000 wet and dry paper (with water and some liquid soap). From then on it was Mothers Metal polish until I was happy.

          I've found I only need to re-polish 1-2 times a year.

          This restoration will hopefully include having all the bright work re-anodised, though I have seen a car with all the brightwork powdercoated in a "chrome" finish which was really quite nice and MUCH cheaper than anodising.

          I'll also be removing the aerial hole and I'm thinking of removing the filler door and refuelling with the bonnet up... but that may be a bit cumbersome. I don't think I want to go to the trouble of a 'centre fill' arrangement.

          If anyone wants specific photos of things otherwise hard to see/photograph, just let me know.
          John Forcier
          1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
          1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
          Restoration Saga
          1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

          Comment


            #6
            Looking good John, I admire your skill set (and garage space!)

            Wouldn't a rotisserie be the most space effective though?
            Cam Arnott
            Looking for engine #6208151
            1970 911E (Sold)
            '71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
            2 x Split Screen Kombis
            TYP 901 Register # 78
            Early S Registry # 1076

            Comment


              #7
              Cheers Cam

              I had the luxury of entertaining Hayden Burvill from Wevo all last weekend (catching up with family here in Oz) and in between the beers, we discussed all things Porsche restoration and hotrods

              Hayden doesn't like rotisseries for unibody cars where key metal is being replaced. In my case, I suspect I'll be replacing a whole floor pan and don't want it coming out of square. Although targas are notorious for 'turning taco' on rotisseries when someone fails to reinforce them, coupe's can twist on rotisseries also if strategic reinforcement isn't welded in. Also the attachment points people use on the 911 tend to be at the very ends which creates un-natural loads on the seams I might be needing to work on. Hayden put me on to Gary Emory's website which shows "The Rack" they use for restos, and Wevo use the same principles http://www.emorymotorsports.com/the-rack . Essentially two octagons which tie into the suspension pick ups which sit on moveable wheels to dolly the car around in any orientation.

              So long as the car is drive train and suspension free, the shell is quite light and can be tipped about with no probs.

              The "Octotisserie" actually maximises my space as a rotisserie chews up a fair bit of space front and rear of the car, and it has the advantage of literally "racking" the car for easy on/off trailer transportation to blasters/painters (where it can be tipped around).

              Also, this is something I'm comfortable making, whereas the home made rotisseries from engine stands just scare me...

              Once it's finished the Octotisserie stores flat/vertical against the garage wall and can be lent to others (the configuration means it doesn't matter if it's an early or later 911). To build this in new 30x30 box I'll be up for $300, but depending on how much scrap I can find I'll defray the costs there.
              Last edited by Fishcop; 31-01-10, 11:58 AM.
              John Forcier
              1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
              1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
              Restoration Saga
              1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

              Comment


                #8
                I agree with your decision with regard to the rotisserie John, I did a lot of research before starting my restoration and decided that i didn't won't any possibility of flex, and i was only working on the rockers.

                I ended up making a dolly that sits under the floor pan, with the drive train removed, all the measurement that i made confirm that i had no flex.

                It has meant the work that I've done on the underneath has been on a creeper, but hey it's good for your soul.

                Tony

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hi Tony, I was prepared to get under there on a creeper also, but would much prefer the ability to choose the angle of attack!

                  I got a couple of hours in the garage today and finished removing all hinged items, pop out windows, and front/rear screens, and most of the interior trim including headliner. I'll try for the dash and gauges this week and looms. I'm keeping the ability to put the wheels on for the time being until a dolly or octotisserie is finished.

                  Unfortunately the sill repairs from 14 years ago are failing and I will be cutting them free to re-do the inner panels again. The outers seem fine, so I should be able to re-use them with a patch or two.

                  Tony, what products/process are you using for bare metal prep?
                  John Forcier
                  1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
                  1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
                  Restoration Saga
                  1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    John,

                    I took the paint off with an orbital and 80 grit. It leaves nice fine scratches for filler work. Seeing that our 69ers don't have any galvanised panels, you won't affect the finish.

                    I don't like paint removal chemicals, and was concerned about warping with blasting seeing that my car had three layers of paint on it.

                    Did some research on Soda and was steered away by a couple of pro painters, who mentioned they have had adhesion problems.

                    I spot media blasted anywhere that I’ve found an area that needed work, so as to make sure i had clean metal for welding.

                    I've butt welded everything that didn't get plug welded on, so as to maintain the original appearance of the panel, and ensure that there are less places for rust to form under seams.

                    I've treated any bare metal with Picklex before and after welding, did some testing and found that I could leave a panel unpainted for about 3 months, which I thought was pretty good considering that I live 300 meters from the beach.

                    I've followed a technique that Daryl of 912 restoration fame has done previously, and have given my welds a smear with JB weld to ensure that I don't have any pin holes, as you can't get a shop light at the back of a lot of the panels.

                    I really like Evercote products and use "All Metal" over my welds after Epoxy priming, then "Rage Extreme".

                    Can you tell I’m paranoid about rust coming back?

                    I hope you've got AC in your garage? It's been far too hot for me here, and with this mozzie plague i'd get carried away at night.

                    Hope that helps

                    Tony

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hey john

                      no way would I tackle the body work myself... but my aim is to cut down the cost by doing as much disassembly and assembly as possible.

                      - How long would it take a normal person (i am starting to think you are more automotively talented than normal) to remove all parts down to a rolling body (taking photos and notes all the way along so that in 2 years you can put it all back together again)?

                      - I might have 2 (cheap, maybe even free) single garages next to each other... is it mad to attempt the 'strip' in a single garage and store parts in the other? Do i need more space, or as should i spend some cash and make an internal doorway between the garages (i'd have to pay someone)?

                      Cheers

                      Rich
                      Richard Griffiths
                      1970 911T 2.8

                      Comment


                        #12
                        garages

                        Rich

                        I like the idea of storage that is removed from the dirty/dusty areas where paint removal etc will take place. The only issue I see is having enough room on the side of the car to work comfortably. Most of the interior work will require doors to be open and removing and refitting doors requires them to close to wide open.

                        Nothing worse than damaging new paint when putting the car back together because there isn't enough space to work!

                        regards
                        Jeff Eelkema
                        TYP 901 #132
                        S-Reg #1431
                        69E (project)
                        various bevel Ducatis
                        60s Vespa

                        Comment


                          #13
                          John, excellent, sounds like the discussion with the Financial Advisor went extremely well..... can you recommend one now!.... ha

                          Comment


                            #14
                            John, thanks for takimg the time to create this thread, it's going to be great following your progress.
                            Paul Wischer
                            1969 911T
                            1979 Californian Moke
                            TYP 901 Register Member #77

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Thanks Tony, I'd heard Picklex was good - I'm a little further back from the Bay, but you can smell the "tang" occasionally

                              Rich, I've disassembled and re-assembled every part of this car at least once but this is the first time I've stripped the entirety at once. I've carefully bagged and tagged hardware and am storing everything in our wine cellar (it's climate controlled and rodent free). As I've done this before I think I'm quicker than the first time... It is DEFINITELY something you can do with a reasonably basic tool set. Give yourself a full weekend to to do the job. I agree with Jeff, if you can store things safely separately then do it - it also makes the work space seem clutter free.

                              Shane, I might have glossed over things with the Minister of Finance... In all honestly, it "shouldn't" be a killer. I've factored $1k for replacement panels (factory and Restoration Design) and another $1500 for paint and consumables - plus a little extra for a pro painter and booth. After that, technically the car can go back together and drive. But I have a vision...

                              After re-reading some great threads on Early S and Bird, in particular Chris Nielsen's two cars, I'm keen to spring for a pro reupholstering job (the all black interior of mine was done 6 years ago with the wife's sewing machine. It held up surprisingly well but I've always wanted leather ) The next photo is of some very cool tartan plaid that could look nice with leather and fit in with the Ossi Blue exterior.

                              Deep down, I'm hoping the car will be worthy of a a few photos and words in Total 911 or similar
                              John Forcier
                              1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
                              1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
                              Restoration Saga
                              1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

                              Comment

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