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VYes the alloy 67 case is meant to be one of the strongest to build such an engine on not that I would know...just what I am told.
Varioram and Wolf, tried to iron out the motec bugs by swapping management systems then created some different ones
Randy had modified a 3.2 Motec loom which had some serious issues, used to stall when changing down in any gear but at least thats all resolved.
Probably should have used the existing motec controller and had it all rewired correctly with new everything...hindsight!!!. Still have all thew motec it if you want to go down that route.
Its smooth, very quick and very quick to respond to your right foot as you might expect with such light internals.
I have had a long conversation with Mark Poole about VW engines and he has really talked me out of going down that track.
If I could get an accurate idea of a total price from these guys http://www.polomotor.com/ this would be a nice way to go but it looks like $30K plus.
I won't be bleating every time it gets tough in the garage, but it is worth mentioning that is is 43 deg. here in Adelaide today, and the air conditioner is having to work hard to keep up.
I won't be bleating every time it gets tough in the garage, but it is worth mentioning that is is 43 deg. here in Adelaide today, and the air conditioner is having to work hard to keep up.
Air conditioning, such modern conveniences.... testing the limits of classic car daily use today
Engine lid in great condition, all seams are free of rust and it stripped easily with no nasty surprises. It had been forward dated so had to weld holes and remove wiper boss but all good.
Bonnet was a different matter all together.
It took a long time to strip and was full of body filler.
Car seems to have had an accident where it went under something and the bonnet took a hiding.
Once stripped I have gone to town with my newest attachment, a metal shrinking disc (basically just a simpler way to do metal shrinking for someone like me who hasn't had years of experience with the oxy acetylene technique)
The hardest work is on the drivers side front of the panel.
I made up a template and with the stud welder have been trying to coax it back into shape. There is no access behind in this area.
After some heavy negotiating at Minus Paint, I got him to do the doors as detailed previously and to me its a great labour saving process, not to mention being able to strip everything from the inside of the door cavity, something sand blasting or even hand finishing would not.
Anyway his first estimate of $3 to $4K for the whole car didn't fly especially since the last time I had a whole car done there it only cost $500 (albeit 20 years ago)
They like to etch prime straight away, and I didnt want that, and also I had already done the front guards and bonnet and engine lid so the deal was done for $1700 for the shell.
The results speak for themselves. The process does not remove any metal or even rust for that matter, it only removes coatings and filler.
Virgin surface, it is possible to see heat affected zones from the factory welds and there are no secrets now.
I have found a couple of extra areas that need steel replacement, but thats the game.
The unplanned steel work on the car is the front lower wheelhouse section.
Mainly on the left under the battery box but also to a lesser extent on the driver side.
Also the lateral fuel tanks supports.
Replacement sections pictured here with the J tube and J tube receiver.
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