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    #31
    Thanks for the tip Tony but the arm rest, door pockets, window winder, and door card needs to come off first !

    I have done this in my MB and its not difficult but bloody time consuming.
    I assume same for the 911 door - probably a 4 hour job
    Mark Evans
    1966 912 5 gauge
    1968 Mercedes Benz 280SL

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      #32
      Originally posted by Fishcop View Post
      Sort of true as I understand it, but the recommendation in this case is to use a fuel stabilizer and/or store your car with a full tank and ensure the venting and seals are all functional. I'll try and find the article I read about it...
      John I had been told that Fuel Stabiliser can play havoc with Webers over time. I have no idea if that is true however.

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        #33
        Originally posted by Merv View Post
        John I had been told that Fuel Stabiliser can play havoc with Webers over time. I have no idea if that is true however.
        You might be right Merv. I'm still trying to dial my car in properly after sitting for 8 months... It has the 'feel' of a gummed jet :/
        John Forcier
        1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
        1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
        Restoration Saga
        1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

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          #34
          Originally posted by SportoEvans View Post
          Thanks for the tip Tony but the arm rest, door pockets, window winder, and door card needs to come off first !

          I have done this in my MB and its not difficult but bloody time consuming.
          I assume same for the 911 door - probably a 4 hour job
          I've found the job pretty easy - I don't have pockets, but the process is unscrew the lock knob, off with the door top (2 screws), off with the winder handle (one slotted machine screw), arm rest is 3x10mm bolts (one has an awkward angle), undo the small torque rod connecting the door handle itself and remove the whole unit. The door panel then pulls directly off (no hard fasteners, just friction ball and sockets). The 10 nuts holding on the door handles are easy to access and you're done. Might take you 20 minutes if you're being careful.
          John Forcier
          1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
          1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
          Restoration Saga
          1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)

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            #35
            Thanks John.

            Certainly sounds easier than the MB which has alu & chrome trim everywhere that is easily bent, screws, fasteners & clips holding the door card on like a bloody bank vault.

            This might be a nice job for saturday morning whilst the wife is shopping and the kids are at sports!
            Mark Evans
            1966 912 5 gauge
            1968 Mercedes Benz 280SL

            Comment


              #36
              Originally posted by Fishcop View Post
              You might be right Merv. I'm still trying to dial my car in properly after sitting for 8 months... It has the 'feel' of a gummed jet :/
              I understand that fuel stabiliser was developed particularly to counter some of the side effects (esp., in the US) of ethanol-added fuel and to reduce atmospheric water build up over time. Both bad for fuel lines and carbs. Reading more suggests that the stabiliser builds up on the surface of the fuel to reduce atmospheric water entry and volatility loss. If there was a slow draining of fuel from the 'bowls over time, the first start could pick up as much stabiliser as it does fuel and the idle galleries in the carb could also be more likely to retain the less volatile stabiliser.

              Many suggest draining the carbs if the car is unused or stored for some time, however.

              Hey- what would I know?

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