These B pillars took some fiddling.....passenger side done.
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And drivers side...
Also getting the new (old) bulkhead ready to go in. I think there was about 8 hours alone in stripping it back, a bit of panel beating, welding in new bottom and side sections and fitting it up.
I can see how restos cost so much.Cam Arnott
Looking for engine #6208151
1970 911E (Sold)
'71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
2 x Split Screen Kombis
TYP 901 Register # 78
Early S Registry # 1076
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Lots of little random bits to sort along the way in terms of rust and holes from previous owners butchery.
Bulkhead is now in, on to the cargo door sill and C pillar next followed by the new floor which is all prepped.
The bit of copper pipe come in handy for filling holes as the weld will not stick to it.Cam Arnott
Looking for engine #6208151
1970 911E (Sold)
'71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
2 x Split Screen Kombis
TYP 901 Register # 78
Early S Registry # 1076
Comment
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Still at it! Cargo floor and bulkhead all in, have stripped the long side panel off as I didn't like what I saw behind the ribs. Found more uglies - no surprises....
Had an issue with the primer I used when I was testing the new spray gun so went back to the red oxide!Cam Arnott
Looking for engine #6208151
1970 911E (Sold)
'71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
2 x Split Screen Kombis
TYP 901 Register # 78
Early S Registry # 1076
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But wait there's more......
I've replaced a couple of sections of dodgy rib on the long side. The wheel arch I was going to try to repair but decided to pull the whole thing out and start from scratch.
Also had to pull out the splash pan for the fuel filler as it needs some holes fixed and I also need to repair the section behind it as well as a patch where I removed some unwanted angle iron and another section on the fuel tank support panel that needs sorting.
The fun continues!Cam Arnott
Looking for engine #6208151
1970 911E (Sold)
'71 911 S/T Replica 2.3 (Sold)
2 x Split Screen Kombis
TYP 901 Register # 78
Early S Registry # 1076
Comment
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Great work Cam.
Looks like you had silicone or even water in the primer. Did you strip and clean the gun before using it? I found a lot of the cheaper guns are assembled using a mineral lube to prevent oxidisation from the manufacturer - but those lubes are incompatible with poly paints...John Forcier
1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
Restoration Saga
1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)
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One other thought Cam - NT in summer is super humid...
Painting in Humidity 101:
What type of water trap are you using? Don't rely on the little bowl separators that come with the compressor.
Buy one of the "slinky" type air lines that self coils - plug into the compressor and then sit it in an esky of ice water slurry, you now have an effective condenser.
You need to get a specialist painting water trap which has a paper and carbon cartridge. Locate it at the end of the slinky hose. Your DEDICATED paint air supply hose plugs into this (this is an airline you look after and keep dry and free of moist air). At the end of this line you use a small trap/regulator before the gun.
It's a bit of effort, but you need super dry air when painting in the tropicsJohn Forcier
1969 2.7RS spec 911B(astard)
1968 2.0S spec 911 Race Car
Restoration Saga
1962 CB77 P3 TT Race Bike (looking for another engine)
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